Thursday, September 27, 2012

Transferring Circuit Images on the Cheap


Your pre sensitized positive acting PCB failed, its a little past midnight and most shops selling it are closed. Unless online shops deliver like your local favorite fastfood chain, youre stuck with waiting till early morning.

Your design is due tomorrow... what do you do?
(What the hell were you thinking doing the prototype in the last minute anyway?)

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Lets face it, sometimes the pre-sen (pre sensitized positive acting PCB) is a hit or miss.

What could be more irritating than a double sided pre-sen with one side perfectly made and one side a complete failure?

When the permanent marker isn't enough for the job, your best friends are the laser printer and the humble flat iron!

Actually it can also be done with ordinary blank PCBs, this method is cheaper than using a pre-sen.

How to do it

Step 1: Eliminate all evidence
Remove the prints on the failed side, Im sure you already know how, but for those who dont:
Acetone/Nail polish remover and a bit of cotton, rub rub rub be careful not to eliminate the successful side

Step 2: Print out your circuit
This step requires a laser printer, I havent tried powder photocopy so lets stick with laser to be safe. Ink jet and ribbon printers cant participate in this trick, their print out does not "react" to heat.

Step 3: Align the targets
Make sure that the circuit is of the right orientation and position, you cant use tape on this one because it will surely melt. The printout should be directly facing the surface of the PCB it will be transferred to!

Step 4: Deploy the shields
Place two more sheets of paper over the printout

Step 5: Release the Kraken!
Or heat the flat iron, max settings should do it. Once its at the set temp (indicator lamp goes out) its time to get to work. Iron the stack you just made in multiple swipes for 8-10 seconds then inspect if the paper containing the print sticks to the PCB. CAUTION: HOT!
repeat once for 5 seconds if it doesnt stick.

If the print doesnt stick, allow the PCB to cool then repeat step 5

Step 6: Unmasking!
Allow the PCB to cool for a bit and start peeling while its warm (or at least bearable to touch)




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